Lao She once said, “One must live in Beiping in autumn. What heaven looks like, I do not know, but judging from my experience, autumn in Beiping is heaven”.
This autumn, don’t shut yourself indoors. The Three Hills and Five Gardens in western Haidian are entering the most captivating time of the year. Two routes, a leisurely journey all the way — no need to rush — take in the autumn light with your eyes, and into your heart.
Route One
In Classical Gardens, Listening to Golden Leaves Whispering to Ancient Pagodas
In the early morning, take Subway Line 4 to the National Library, and first visit the Five Pagoda Temple. The 600-year-old Diamond Throne Pagoda stands quietly within, while two ancient ginkgo trees spread a canopy of golden yellow before the pagoda — that is the most ancient and profound corner of autumn in Beijing.
A ten-minute walk out the door leads to Zizhuyuan Park, where lake waters shimmer and bamboo shadows sway in the wind. Having brunch here is leisurely, just right.
In the afternoon, still take Line 4 straight to the Summer Palace. Kunming Lake shimmers with rippling light, and the Tower of Buddhist Incense stands majestically reflected in the water. Autumn colors set off the classical garden with particular clarity.
Then move on to the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan), slowly walking along the golden ginkgo avenue. The grandeur of the classical garden and the profound meaning of history grow ever more serene in the autumn hues.
Encounter the beauty of Haidian, and find resonance with life.
Route Two
Take the Western Suburban Line to the Western Hills to See Layered Forests Fully Tinted
Take the Western Suburban Line — the “train bound for autumn” — directly to Fragrant Hills. Mountain-wide red leaves and layered forests fully tinted are an unavoidable “top draw” of autumn in the capital. If time is limited, there’s no need to climb the mountain; the scenery around the Fragrant Hills Hotel at the foot of the mountain is already enough to make one tipsy. The plank walkway winding beside the stream is like a secret realm hidden in the forest.
On the return journey, just one stop away is the National Botanical Garden. The metasequoia forest is quiet and deep. As the autumn wind arrives gently, occasionally a few fallen leaves drift down unhurriedly in spirals, as if exchanging warm greetings with this splendid autumn light.
At Wofo Temple, ancient ginkgo trees carpet the ground in golden yellow. Every casual snapshot is a stunning masterpiece.
Finally, take a bus into the mountains to catch the afterglow of the setting sun, and visit Dajue Temple to pay homage to the 900-year-old “Ginkgo King”. Sip a cup of spring water tea, and let the serene beauty of autumn slowly unfold in this moment.
Autumn in Beijing is as beautiful as a painting, yet it comes and goes in haste, never pausing for anyone. It does not wait for time, but only for those willing to rush toward it. While the weekend wind is clear and the sun is warm, invite a few good friends to join this limited-time golden romance.
